Atlantic Canada – on the Island of Newfoundland

So a week has passed since we headed up island once again following Craig, our friend and province guide, along the Trans Canada highway to Gander. From there we turned to the north and the journey back to the Bluecharm Inn truly began…

Two months further into the calendar year this trip, summer rather than early spring, the woods are lush with verdant greens of all shades. What were newly budding trees – firs, spruce, alders, junipers, cottonwoods, beech and birch but to name a few, are now splendid in their finest coats. What had been a thin winter-worn forest could now hide a bear or moose or even a lynx at every turn!

The eight kilometer track into New Pond is rougher than ever. Alas, crime is rising on the Island and the track is not made to encourage unwanted visitors… but we wend our way up and over the rocks and boulders till there we were… once more on the shore of the pond that will be our home for the next two months… and across the water waiting is the Bluecharm Inn. Hard to share the feeling that already is a homecoming to an almost sacred sense of retreat…

We were treated to Craig’s company for three nights as he shared his bountiful knowledge of the land and pond including some personal one on one fly fishing tuition. Always stunning, with twilights that linger on and on, the sunsets built in intensity till on the third evening, reached a saturation and density of colour unknown to either of us. An extraordinary event we shared with two other fisherman who were on a work break from Labrador, while we were fly fishing from boat at Cooper’s Point, a five minute ride up pond from cabin. The salmon were jumping, flashing in the flames of the fallen sun and it was a sight to behold to see these mature salmon almost dance on their tails. We watched in awe as the fishermen tempted the salmon to ‘rise’ to the fly and eventually hook one (no barbs allowed), allowing it to play the line until tired to be then scooped up with a hand net. Three were caught that night of the many that teased our want. Nettie got one to rise while Fran landed another Craig had got on the line…what a thrill… and oh the flavour… we have certainly come to honour the wise and powerful realm of the goddess of Salmon. The fishing is tightly regulated and on this pond only two per fisher person can be caught per season. They must be tagged immediately otherwise you run the risk of having huge fines and confiscation of property. We have yet to catch any to tag ourselves but are ever hopeful…

But we have eaten the trout we have caught ourselves every day, some off our little jetty, others from boat as we learn to take ourselves around the pond – think eight miles in length with numerous islands and coves and rocks and lilybeds – dropping anchor here and there – doesn’t get much better – and last night Nettie landed her first fly fished trout, which means no bait just lots of patient tempting with a fake fly! Most impressive as seen as being the fairest form of fishing.

Clear blue skies and a comfortable temperature of mid twenties, with the odd day of misty rain and fogs (just to remind us where we are here perched just south of Greenland) has lent itself to easy days of fishing and catching up on much needed sleep and rest and all those indoor pursuits like reading, knitting, drawing, Scrabble and cards, listening to the local radio and the occasional Skype contact with family and friends.

We have ventured down several overgrown tracks in gum boots but even now in summer the walking is heavy going through the spongy, marshy fecund layer as the summer growth of vegetation is thick and deep. They say there is 100 days of growth before the cold returns and everything seems hellbent on making the most of every sun drenched moment. Mosses and lichens of all types and shades abound. There are berry bushes everywhere including the delicious cloudberry otherwise known as bakeapple due to their flavour which are ripe for picking right now. We have picked and eaten several containers out of the wild marshes surrounding the Inn. The summer has transformed the area around the cabin into a veritable Garden of Eden – minus the snakes! – and we have had to retrain ourselves not to be on the constant lookout for our antipodean friends of the bush – not to be seen in these woods. A pleasant surprise was to happen upon a mass of wild water irises that deep shade of purple blue, and some aubergine and green pitcher plants. Every day that we tramp through the woods and out into the fen there are new varieties of plants, flowers and berries. The manual to identify them all would be a large tome indeed…..

We share our cabin land with the cutest squirrels though we have been warned not to let them in cabin as they will trash everything in no time! The grey jays are as naturally tame as king parrots. Loons come to land on the pond morning and night with a call that never fails to reach deep into one’s soul. We see the occasional beaver, head up, swimming across the pond.

Here’s a song from the heart about what also touches us so much about being here. The band is Buddy Wasisname and the other Fellers – don’t you just love the name!!  Enjoy… http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h1euQv_L6c

So for all who may be wondering we are well and safe and deeply contented. We will let the photos share the rest of the picture.

Though we have internet, blog pages will be occasional as we have to venture out to Gander to upload photos. Thanks to the Forrest community for standing up to the coal and gas venturists – we are there with you in spirit – keep up the good fight!! And so again love to all, we love hearing from you, and hope the winter is being gentle…

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8 thoughts on “Atlantic Canada – on the Island of Newfoundland

    1. Hi Di

      glad to hear you are enjoying our posts..yes it is a beautiful place indeed..it is wonderful to be able to spend our August here…hang in there down south – spring is coming lol, love to you too, Nettie and Fran

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    1. Thanks Jennifer… lovely to hear from you…the days are full and long with the lingering twilights and here in cabin on pond we are beginning to merge from one into the next… what a wonderful change from the working world…love from us both xxxxx

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  1. Wow!!! Sounds and looks incredible- can’t imagine to be there to feel and smell too! Are you a fishing convert now Nettie and Fran you must be deeply satisfied.Enjoy girls…..miss and love you both xxxx

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    1. dearest Cory…it is indeed a feast for the senses…Nettie is definitely a convert and will be delighted to share her fly fishing talent, tho she does declare me the trout fishing queen… our omegas must be right up there!!! and the smoked trout is fantastic…we have borrowed Craig’s waders but both want our own set now…Nettie is still looking for a pair to match her colour scheme..much love to you all from the far away pond…xxxxx

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  2. Wow! BTW, I’ve sent Greg his birthday book. Have a look next time you’re at E. and if you want one I’ll order. love margo

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