The sky is alight with the fire of our last sunset on Fogo Island as we sit and wonder how to share our three days here with Linda, Glen and Jacqueline. Gazing across the molten sun-struck ocean between their house and the silhouetted Change Islands, we both feel very happy and grateful to be in their Island Harbour home again. This time without the fog we have been able to appreciate s the island in all its beauty.
Fogo Island, population 2,700 spread across about 10 villages/outports, is north of the island of Newfoundland and has the hottest summer in the province. One day actually reached 28 degrees with 95% humidity. We walked two trails – the first being a loop around the now vacated outports of Eastern Tickle and Lion’s Den, whose dwellings were either dismantled or floated on barrels around to another more accessible cove. Each turn of the trail offered yet another great view across the sparkling ocean with icebergs in the distance. The wild blueberries growing alongside the trail were a constant delight, small but rich in flavour and refreshment. Each now deserted little bay, sanctuary from the fierce Atlantic ocean ,had us pondering the lives lived and gone in this most remote corner over hundreds of years – those hardy immigrants from Britain with surnames such as Lewis, Leyte, Osmond and Best. On the beautiful sunny day we were there it looked like paradise but still the winters are mighty harsh.
The second trail we took was Turpin’s Trail where legend has it an early settler by the name of Turpin was decapitated by the local Aboriginals – the Archaic Maritimes, maybe pay back for some hideous crime or maybe they just wanted the iron nails from his boat. This trail was more wild and adventurous and was close to the World Heritage listed town of Tilting where people still speak with an Irish accent.
We have noticed some changes even since our last visit 15 months ago. Houses are being renovated and new ones built as the island is slowly being rediscovered. We hope the island’s remote and solitary nature doesn’t change too much….
The photos on this post were taken with our new Sony DSLR that was kindly purchased on our behalf by Glen. We are very excited to have this new tool and look forward to getting to know all its capacities.
Thanks Glen, Linda and Jacqueline (and Chrissy grrrrowl!) for an absolutely wonderful visit and your warm hospitality. We feel well refreshed to head back to our wilderness hideaway…
Next year we will time our visit with Glen’s annual exhibition – here is the link for his fabulous photos of Fogo: