Farewell Newfoundland

Here are some images of our last few days on ‘The Rock’. A new annual event seems to be the early September hurricane reaching the Maritimes and Newfoundland still with significant force. As a result of global warming the Atlantic Ocean is several degrees warmer and no longer able to dissipate the hurricane’s energy in cold water. Shocked and decimated by Hurricane Igor two years ago, Newfoundland is rethinking drainage and other infrastructure to cope with the severity of storms yet to come. Roxanne, being a member of the medical profession and therefore essential service, dons her hurricane wear for the journey into work central St John’s.

We woke the next day to clear blue skies and a landscape washed clean. Unfortunately each year the latest hurricane takes its toll on barely established and even hundred year old trees that are shallow rooted due to a thin layer of top soil. But at least no lives were lost, unlike previous years

Perfect picnic weather so we took off with our dear friend and guide, Sandy, for trips out along ‘The Irish Loop’ including Petty Harbour where we feasted on cod literally taken from the morning’s catch and battered in the lightest, laciest batter ever! Then on to Ferryland where current archaeological digs are revealing cobblestone streets and courtyards and masses of settlement debris dating from 1621. Built by the British then burnt by the French as was so often the history of this area. The lowest levels have revealed campsites of the Beothuk Indians, Newfoundland’s now-extinct Native people. At the same levels evidence of European fishermen from Spain, Portugal, the Basque Provinces, Brittany and West Country England have been found.

Standing on the shore, leaning out over the seawall, we watched the massive rolling waves of the Atlantic pound incessantly on the stony shore, all the while enthralled by the susurration (great word), the sound made as the sea draws back from the shore rolling and sucking and tumbling the rocks in its grasp with a music all its own. This is sound-scape of a powerful elemental energy and one never to be forgotten. It was hard to leave.

The following day we visited Brigus and Cupid’s Harbour. It surprises us how we never tire of this island and every corner reveals another charming village, cove or untouched wilderness.


We always try to take in some local art and found an exceptional exhibition, entitled Earth Skins, at The Rooms in St Johns by locally born artist, Susan Wood. Loved her work.


How fond we are of this land and our friends and new found family… may you all stay safe, happy and well till next time, and despite the lush crop of Dogberries, said to be an omen of a deep dark season to come, may your winter be gentle and kind…


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