After travelling on two buses and one train from Lulea in Sweden we arrived after dark (sunset 3.10pm!) in Rovaniemi …steeping down from the train we were met by our gracious airbnb host Jorma.
We chatted merrily during ninety kilometre drive through the dark, wooded roads, criss crossing the Arctic Circle several times before reaching our final destination in Luusua, near Kamijarvi, right in the heart of Suomi – Finish Lapland.
Jorma had prepared a most tasty supper of local matsutake mushrooms harvested from the local woods, that he says smell like angels, and vegetables with crepes – Jorma believes in eating as much as possible from local forest, lake and his own garden which is harvested in Summer.
After a short rest we went on walk to the frozen lake to hear the ‘animals’ under the ice…
Then things began to get very surreal…to our right (south/east) a half moon rose and cast a blueish light across the ice making the glitter shimmer….and to our left (north/west) the northern lights began to dance across the sky…we laughed ourselves silly as we had our first rides on the ‘kick sleighs’ under the moon and shafts of green light…very trippy for these old hippies.
Then the ‘animal’ sounds began…a low growling, rumbling as the ice groaned and shifted deep under our feet and the sound echoing monster-like around the lake. Goosebumps.
Our first night here we slept like angels in our bed in the attic.
Today after breakfast the three of us and Poncho the beagle waked six kilometres, in minus 11 degrees, on tracks through the forest and across frozen lakes…the ice crystals sparkling, air crisp and the whole experience magical and dreamlike. A herd of wild reindeer thundered past and one stopped to look at us looking at him through the trees.
Sunset 15.06 today and moonrise 15.17…we will be here for the supermoon 🙂
Tonight it is -20 and there may be snow
And this is only day one of a five day stay…
you can be a WWOOFER (Willing Worker On Organic Farms) here too: